The Ferry from Baku to Turkmenbashi

I had been trying not to think about the twelve hour boat ride between Baku and Turkmenbashi, but inevitably that day arrived and it was time for me to face the journey. We left our hotel around midday, as confirmations were made that the ship would be going to Turkmenistan and not to somewhere else. For quite a while this was unclear, so we made our way to the harbour, hoping that our appearance would speed things up. We watched huge lorries and even train carriages drive onto the ship, as railway sleepers extended onto the ferry floor. We were stamped out of Azerbaijan and by three pm we were on board Ms Mercury.



The ship was larger than I imagined and very sturdy. I had a twin cabin, which was perfectly adequate, with a desk, bunk bed, an ensuite bathroom with a shower and sink. These were the best cabins at one hundred dollars each, and thankfully came lacking the cockroaches that I had expected. It was quite a relief that we had our own Western style toilets and not some grim, communal squatter. There were a few communal areas and a basic restaurant, which would cook dishes like chicken and chips or lamb and chick peas for a few dollars should you wish. There was a fridge with a selection of water, coke and fanta for sale at a dollar, but not a lot else. After waiting for what felt like an eternity, we set sail at eleven pm. We ate some cold pizza and a few snacks that we had brought with is and went to sleep. We had the windows open, as it was good to have a breeze in our cabin but the sound of the wind gusting in and the crashing of the waves was so loud, that I put my earplugs in to sleep.

The following morning I awoke to the gentle lull of turquoise blue water and passed the day by sitting out on deck, under a shady pillar. I ate my way through a bag of snacks and read a book about the life of a Japanesse family, through the eyes of a cat. In the afternoon they put down the ankors and we remained stationary, waiting in a queue of ships, for our place to dock. Mid afternoon, we began to move again, and by five pm we had docked. It took another six hours for us to pass through immigrations, by which point we had reached the curfew and were unable to drive to our camping ground.



We have a young and enthusiastic guide, who brought us some containters of meat, potatoes and salad, which was promptly consumed on the waiting room floor. We were all so hungry by this point as it felt like hours since the food that we were given for lunch. The various containers of cooked beef, pork, lamb and fish tasted delicious, and we were delighted with the baked jacket potatoes and dishes of chopped cucumber and tomato. We tucked in, to the envy of the local people, who were now trying to sleep across the plastic seats.

Due to the eleven pm curfew for tourists, we had to camp outside the immigrations building, and began to pitch our tents in the dimly lit car park, just as the wind began to pick up. We met some local people who had been waiting all day to get the ferry to Baku, and would still have to wait longer, since they were told that a storm was coming and the ship would not be leaving the port. I thought how lucky were, to get in when we did, rather than being stuck out at sea, in turbulant waters.

I put up my tent and tried to sleep, but when I could see the street lights from the gap that the top sheet left behind, having risen a foot from the base of the tent, I knew that it wasn't going well. I lay on my sleeping mat, constantly buffeted by the wind and decided that with a storm on its way, things would only get worse. I slept on the back seat of the truck, and watched the guide's tent rolling around the car park, upside down. I went to see if he was trapped in it, but no one answered when I called. Several people tried to move their tents in the night, to somewhere less windy but it was a fairly fruitless task.

The following day we called by a market stall at Turkmenbashi and bought ingredients for dinner that night. Most of the day was spent driving through various stages of dried mud landscape, dry and desert like until early evening, when we set up camp outside an underground lake. I was awakened in the night to the sound of rain drops, but fell back to sleep shortly after.

Baku, Azerbaijan

I've been in Baku for a few days. The first was spent wandering around the new town, through wide shopping boulivards with shimmering water fountains, in persuit of a pirate costume. In order to make the ferry crossing slightly less dull, we will be having a pirate fashion show. With a budget of a few dollars I have been scouring the local markets and second hand shops for bandanas, tops to cut up, pirate badges and trashy bracelets. We each picked out someone else to dress up, so later tonight, I may discover my outfit, as we board our ship. I stocked up at a supermarket and have a large bag of food and drink, incase we end up on board for days.

In the evening we were treated to a stunning fireworks display over the sea front, as it was a national holiday. I had a brilliant view from my fifteenth floor hotel room.

Yesterday we had a local guide who gave us a walking tour of the old town. We saw some gorgeous architecture with ornate carvings and archways, as well as the Maiden Tower, which unfortunatly was closed so we couldn't climb it. We were also shown a few very atmospheric
caravanserais, with their stables and guest rooms converted into restaurants. Eventually we stopped for lunch, where I enjoyed the local dish of dolmas, meat and rice wrapped in edible vine leaves.

By the end of the afternoon I joined the crowds of locals, walking along the sea front in their best summer dresses. Bright colours are very fashionable here, especially yellow, with many friends wearing nearly identical tops. Couples and families seem to gather at the refreshing fountains, to talk and eat ice creams. There is also a permanent fair ground further down the promenade with remote controlled cars for children to drive around in. The whole city feels very cosmopolitan and upbeat, with its liberal attitude and well maintained buildings. I have enjoyed spending time here.

Mud Volcanoes, Azerbaijan

The journey to the boarder was fairly uneventful, as an official came onto our truck to gather passports, reading our names and staring intently at us. Eventually they were returned to us and two hours after arriving on the Georgian side, we set off into Azerbaijan. The air was noticeably drier, the sun hotter and the fields golden with corn. At least I know that the bread will be plentiful.

Our accommodation for the night was at the grand Caravanserai, a gorgeous inn, famous for providing food and a bed for passing traders, with a large wooden door and a beautiful domed ceiling. There was a courtyard in the center with plants and seating, providing a peaceful retreat.

The journey the next day was long and consisted of driving through hours of nothingness with the occasional rocky sand dune. We stopped by an inland lake for lunch, which was a beautiful spot, sparse and dry apart from the shimmering water. Our cook group put out a selection of bread, meat, cheese and veg, and then we were on our way again.

In the evening we camped on a hill surrounded by mud volcanoes and began to prepare the evening meal to the bubbling eruptions and the sound of mud trickling out. Dinner was a success as we peeled and soated potatoes with sausages and tomatoes. Gradually the sun went down, leaving a gorgeous red glow over the mountains and a sky full of stars. The gurgling sound of the mud erruptions was a little disturbing for sleeping to, so I put in my earplugs and slept deeply until the morning. I awoke to the hurried clanging of boxes being put back into the truck, as rain clouds had formed and we needed to leave before we would be stuck. Where we were camping is very dry and it rarely rains but we couldn't take the chance.

The drive back was an interesting one, as the drivers tried retracing the sandy track we had taken previously, but somehow we were on a different path which led us around a maze of never ending gas pipes and a railway line. Eventually we found civilisation and a smooth road, which took us towards Baku. We stopped off at a display of Petroglyphs on the way, with ancient carvings of bulls, hunters and primitive boats.