The Ferry from Baku to Turkmenbashi

I had been trying not to think about the twelve hour boat ride between Baku and Turkmenbashi, but inevitably that day arrived and it was time for me to face the journey. We left our hotel around midday, as confirmations were made that the ship would be going to Turkmenistan and not to somewhere else. For quite a while this was unclear, so we made our way to the harbour, hoping that our appearance would speed things up. We watched huge lorries and even train carriages drive onto the ship, as railway sleepers extended onto the ferry floor. We were stamped out of Azerbaijan and by three pm we were on board Ms Mercury.



The ship was larger than I imagined and very sturdy. I had a twin cabin, which was perfectly adequate, with a desk, bunk bed, an ensuite bathroom with a shower and sink. These were the best cabins at one hundred dollars each, and thankfully came lacking the cockroaches that I had expected. It was quite a relief that we had our own Western style toilets and not some grim, communal squatter. There were a few communal areas and a basic restaurant, which would cook dishes like chicken and chips or lamb and chick peas for a few dollars should you wish. There was a fridge with a selection of water, coke and fanta for sale at a dollar, but not a lot else. After waiting for what felt like an eternity, we set sail at eleven pm. We ate some cold pizza and a few snacks that we had brought with is and went to sleep. We had the windows open, as it was good to have a breeze in our cabin but the sound of the wind gusting in and the crashing of the waves was so loud, that I put my earplugs in to sleep.

The following morning I awoke to the gentle lull of turquoise blue water and passed the day by sitting out on deck, under a shady pillar. I ate my way through a bag of snacks and read a book about the life of a Japanesse family, through the eyes of a cat. In the afternoon they put down the ankors and we remained stationary, waiting in a queue of ships, for our place to dock. Mid afternoon, we began to move again, and by five pm we had docked. It took another six hours for us to pass through immigrations, by which point we had reached the curfew and were unable to drive to our camping ground.



We have a young and enthusiastic guide, who brought us some containters of meat, potatoes and salad, which was promptly consumed on the waiting room floor. We were all so hungry by this point as it felt like hours since the food that we were given for lunch. The various containers of cooked beef, pork, lamb and fish tasted delicious, and we were delighted with the baked jacket potatoes and dishes of chopped cucumber and tomato. We tucked in, to the envy of the local people, who were now trying to sleep across the plastic seats.

Due to the eleven pm curfew for tourists, we had to camp outside the immigrations building, and began to pitch our tents in the dimly lit car park, just as the wind began to pick up. We met some local people who had been waiting all day to get the ferry to Baku, and would still have to wait longer, since they were told that a storm was coming and the ship would not be leaving the port. I thought how lucky were, to get in when we did, rather than being stuck out at sea, in turbulant waters.

I put up my tent and tried to sleep, but when I could see the street lights from the gap that the top sheet left behind, having risen a foot from the base of the tent, I knew that it wasn't going well. I lay on my sleeping mat, constantly buffeted by the wind and decided that with a storm on its way, things would only get worse. I slept on the back seat of the truck, and watched the guide's tent rolling around the car park, upside down. I went to see if he was trapped in it, but no one answered when I called. Several people tried to move their tents in the night, to somewhere less windy but it was a fairly fruitless task.

The following day we called by a market stall at Turkmenbashi and bought ingredients for dinner that night. Most of the day was spent driving through various stages of dried mud landscape, dry and desert like until early evening, when we set up camp outside an underground lake. I was awakened in the night to the sound of rain drops, but fell back to sleep shortly after.

Baku, Azerbaijan

I've been in Baku for a few days. The first was spent wandering around the new town, through wide shopping boulivards with shimmering water fountains, in persuit of a pirate costume. In order to make the ferry crossing slightly less dull, we will be having a pirate fashion show. With a budget of a few dollars I have been scouring the local markets and second hand shops for bandanas, tops to cut up, pirate badges and trashy bracelets. We each picked out someone else to dress up, so later tonight, I may discover my outfit, as we board our ship. I stocked up at a supermarket and have a large bag of food and drink, incase we end up on board for days.

In the evening we were treated to a stunning fireworks display over the sea front, as it was a national holiday. I had a brilliant view from my fifteenth floor hotel room.

Yesterday we had a local guide who gave us a walking tour of the old town. We saw some gorgeous architecture with ornate carvings and archways, as well as the Maiden Tower, which unfortunatly was closed so we couldn't climb it. We were also shown a few very atmospheric
caravanserais, with their stables and guest rooms converted into restaurants. Eventually we stopped for lunch, where I enjoyed the local dish of dolmas, meat and rice wrapped in edible vine leaves.

By the end of the afternoon I joined the crowds of locals, walking along the sea front in their best summer dresses. Bright colours are very fashionable here, especially yellow, with many friends wearing nearly identical tops. Couples and families seem to gather at the refreshing fountains, to talk and eat ice creams. There is also a permanent fair ground further down the promenade with remote controlled cars for children to drive around in. The whole city feels very cosmopolitan and upbeat, with its liberal attitude and well maintained buildings. I have enjoyed spending time here.

Mud Volcanoes, Azerbaijan

The journey to the boarder was fairly uneventful, as an official came onto our truck to gather passports, reading our names and staring intently at us. Eventually they were returned to us and two hours after arriving on the Georgian side, we set off into Azerbaijan. The air was noticeably drier, the sun hotter and the fields golden with corn. At least I know that the bread will be plentiful.

Our accommodation for the night was at the grand Caravanserai, a gorgeous inn, famous for providing food and a bed for passing traders, with a large wooden door and a beautiful domed ceiling. There was a courtyard in the center with plants and seating, providing a peaceful retreat.

The journey the next day was long and consisted of driving through hours of nothingness with the occasional rocky sand dune. We stopped by an inland lake for lunch, which was a beautiful spot, sparse and dry apart from the shimmering water. Our cook group put out a selection of bread, meat, cheese and veg, and then we were on our way again.

In the evening we camped on a hill surrounded by mud volcanoes and began to prepare the evening meal to the bubbling eruptions and the sound of mud trickling out. Dinner was a success as we peeled and soated potatoes with sausages and tomatoes. Gradually the sun went down, leaving a gorgeous red glow over the mountains and a sky full of stars. The gurgling sound of the mud erruptions was a little disturbing for sleeping to, so I put in my earplugs and slept deeply until the morning. I awoke to the hurried clanging of boxes being put back into the truck, as rain clouds had formed and we needed to leave before we would be stuck. Where we were camping is very dry and it rarely rains but we couldn't take the chance.

The drive back was an interesting one, as the drivers tried retracing the sandy track we had taken previously, but somehow we were on a different path which led us around a maze of never ending gas pipes and a railway line. Eventually we found civilisation and a smooth road, which took us towards Baku. We stopped off at a display of Petroglyphs on the way, with ancient carvings of bulls, hunters and primitive boats.

Telavi, Georgia

Today I left the luxury of my hotel room for the truck and we made our way towards Telavi, stopping at the newly renovated tourist town of Signagi along the way. The town felt very out of place, with its picture perfect facades and decorative window boxes, after all the delapidated buildings of nearby Tbilisi. There were police on every corner, maintaining the sense of peace, as hordes of Georgian tourists flocked to the newly created Pleasantville, to pose against the sparkling fountain and take a yellow tourist bus out to the boundary walls.

A huge amount of money had been spent on turning this town into an attraction, so much so, that it felt like a themed city, sterile and false, with a hint of something sinister, underneath the artificially created surface. The surrounding landscape was idyllic and resembled images of Tuscany, with terracotta roofs and green rolling hills. I sat on the fountain steps and ate my lunch, when even a cheerful dog sat beside me, well mannered and tail wagging as I tore off some scraps of bread.

Later in the afternoon we arrived at our homestay, a large family house with huge rooms and a balcony, overlooking a garden with herbs and fruit trees. We went fr a walk to the nearest town, while our host prepared a delicious meal for us, with a meaty soup, various dishes of vegetables and peppers stuffed with meat and rice. I also had a small dish of sliced mushrooms mixed with herbs. The soft drinks, however, were quite disgusting, artificial and fizzy, barely resembling the flavour that they were supposed to be. Much local wine was consumed by the others as a string of toasts were made. Part of the way through the evening the power cut off and we were in darkness. Our hosts brought out candles and we continued to eat.

The next day we said goodbye to our hosts and drove to a monestry in use by a group of nuns. Photography was not allowed and we were given long skirts to wear, on top of trousers. The main building was oppressive, with faded frescos, dimly lit by candle light and guarded by stern faced nuns. The next stop was a wine tasting experience, which a few of us decided to skip. The rest of the group came back quite merry and continued to drink throughout the day. They also filled a jerry can for the journey through the Stans, with cheap Georgian wine.

We sat up camp by the end of the afternoon in a clearing, surrounded by wooded hills and a lake. A local farmer hearded his sheep around the campsite and out towards distant pastures and a few of us gathered wood for the fire. Meat was cooked over an impromptu barbecue of hot wood with jacket potato and vegetables. It tasted divine.

Shortly after going to bed I became aware of drunken singing growing louder as a group of locals wandered around our campsite, probably curious as to who we were and wanting someone to drink with. After a while of us laying silently in our tents, they moved on and all that could be heard was the trickle of the stream.

Tbilisi, Georgia

Tbilisi is a fusion of Western high street stores and Soviet style grocery shops, with a small selection of meats, veg and an assortment of plastic goods. The main high street has a very modern feel, with imposing architecture and interesting churches, but as soon as I stray from the main area, the side streets display a vision of chaotic wiring and crumbling facades. Many of these buildings are still habited but they look more like a scene from a shanty town, than modern Tbilisi. There is another part of town near the river, with pavement cafes and bars, providing a great atmosphere and somewhere relaxed to eat in the evenings.



The food in Tbilisi is wonderful. There is a lot of choice and salads are served to a Western standard. On the first night, I ate at a pavement cafe and ordered a potato with veg salad and a dish of chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce, accompanied by green tarragon flavoured lemonade. The waitresses here are very friendly and service has so far been with a smile. A mix of rock and pop songs are played in the background and groups of friends chat and laugh over a selection of European cuisine.

Yesterday we had a walking tour, through botanical gardens and church grounds on a hillside, which gave great views of the city. We stopped at a restaurant for lunch and continued to the modern town, passing grand Parliment buildings and an ornate theatre. Our young guide was in her final year at University and coincidently is the daughter of the family whose guesthouse that we stayed at in Mestia. This really does feel a very small country.



By mid afternoon it had started to rain and by the evening it was torrential, so I took the metro to the new town, which was clean, efficient and in cryllic. I commited the ultimate traveller sin and ate at McDonalds. I think that the last time I did this was in Prague, many years ago. Again, it was raining a lot and I hoped it wouldn't be as bad as the chain at home. So I ordered my hamburger meal and took advantage of the free wifi. The city looked really beautiful at night so I took a few photos. I took the metro back to hotel GTM and got quite soaked on the quick walk back. This morning I bought an umbrella, although today is has been hot and sunny. We have another two days in Georgia, including a night camping and a home stay.

Mestia, Georgia

The musical sound of bells can be heard, as a cow emerges from a cluster of pine trees. We trek for a few hours, through woods and large rocky landscapes, precariously negotiating my way across a stoney valley.

Both sides are forested and infront stands a glacier, dwarfed by a peak of ice. On the other side of the glacier is Russia. I pause for a while and eat my supply of cake, biscuits and turkish delight, standing in a mix of snow and grit. I try to shelter by a large rock as some of the group trek right up to the glacier. The weather begins to turn, so we head back.



We have been staying in the rural town of Mestia, after a long drive from Batumi, into the mountains.



We arrived late after a slow journey, not helped by a spring breaking on the truck. Tired and admitting defeat, we checked into a guesthouse, where within half an hour, our host had prepared a meal for us, consisting of soups, potato salad, a homemade pizza, yogurt and an incredibley sweet walnut cake. Much wine was consumed by the others and it was a fairly joyous night. In the morning we were treated to a hearty breakfast of potatoes, egg and barely wheat, at the Nino and Eka Japaridze guesthouse, before our trek into the Caucasus mountains.



By the time we arrived back in town, the leaders had nearly finished working on the truck and we had gathered quite a crowd. I sat on the park railings with some of the local kids, as cows strolled past and even a pot bellied pig. There is something quite liberating about staying in a community where animals wander freely and people toot their horns and wave, when we are camping. The people in Georgia are so friendly.



With the truck fixed, we drove a short distance out of town, to a grassy field and pitched our tents. I heard the distant sound of buzzing which was rapidly getting louder. Some of the guys were sitting around the camp fire, blissfully unaware and after a brief moment of panic, we jumped into the back of the truck, as a swarm of either wasps or bees flew by. After returning to the field, we soon had company in the form of a drooling dog, who kept his distance while staring intently at the food being prepared. A group of children also appeared, who lit their own camp fire and proceeded to jump over it. As night fell, the children left but we were surrounded by dogs and cows. I fell asleep quickly and all to soon it was morning and time to pack our tents and drive back to Kutasi, which we had stopped at a few days earlier.

Batumi, Georgia

We made it into Georgia, after a lengthy police stop and much waiting for the truck to get through the border crossing. We have stopped in the town of Batumi, an interesting town with a port and many individual stalls. The people have a very different face shape to Turkey and so far have been lovely.

I took a few photos in one of the side streets of various merchants, including one of myself and a flower seller. For lunch we found a pavement cafe where I ordered grey mullet fish and bread. Many of the items on the menu were unavailable, but the meal was delicious and our hosts were appreciative of our custom. It's been a relaxing day, with a stroll along the sea front and various wandering through streets. There is noticeably more povety here, with many people begging and even a baby left on the street, to attract money. However, Georgia looks like a fascinating country, which I shall see more of soon. Tomorrow we leave Batumi for our homestay.

Cappadocia to Trabzon

Last night we arrived in Trabzon after a grueling journey through endless mountain passes and twisty roads. What was expected to be a four hour journey turned into a ten hour expedition, through mountain passes of 3200m, in the mist, clouds, and hill sides covered in pine trees. There was even snow and a flock of very woolly rams.

The landscape changed dramatically from the dusty rock scape of Cappadocia. We passed through lush green plains, next to poppy fields and inland lakes until we reached alpine scenery. I took many photos along the journey as the mountain roads provided breath taking views. Unfortunately I felt very dizzy, but thankfully I survived with the help of several motion sickness tablets. Eight hours of those roads was exhausting and I was very glad to arrive, even if Trabzon is possibly the ugliest town that I have ever seen! The weather here is pretty similar to at home. It's cold and grey, with stormy looking clouds. Not quite the Turkish seaside resort that I was expecting. However, I went to see an old church this morning with some of the group and then wandered around the town. There were streets of brightly coloured clothes shops and market stalls with fabric and fresh fish. I tried to buy a silk head scarf but I couldn't find a colour scheme that suited me. Most of them tended to use floral prints in bright colour and I decided that the choice of head scalf represented the wearers personality. There are times when blending in is really useful, but when I walk around on my own I don't seem to have many problems since many of the local girls have curly brown hair and western style clothes.

Despite there being not a lot here for tourists to see, it's an interesting place with lovely fresh bread and great fish restaurants. I enjoyed walking through the narrow streets, which showed a very honest representation of the way of life here, in industrial Turkey.

This afternoon we took a trip out of town to the Sumela Monastery which is built into a cliff face, hidden in the forested Karadaglar mountains. It was incredibley atmospheric, covered in mist, with a vertical rock face that continued as far as the eye could see. Inside the monastery were religious frescos that covered the entire surface area. Although the visibility was pretty bad, and we weren't able to see the building from the valley, it was still an interesting trip.