Mud Volcanoes, Azerbaijan

The journey to the boarder was fairly uneventful, as an official came onto our truck to gather passports, reading our names and staring intently at us. Eventually they were returned to us and two hours after arriving on the Georgian side, we set off into Azerbaijan. The air was noticeably drier, the sun hotter and the fields golden with corn. At least I know that the bread will be plentiful.

Our accommodation for the night was at the grand Caravanserai, a gorgeous inn, famous for providing food and a bed for passing traders, with a large wooden door and a beautiful domed ceiling. There was a courtyard in the center with plants and seating, providing a peaceful retreat.

The journey the next day was long and consisted of driving through hours of nothingness with the occasional rocky sand dune. We stopped by an inland lake for lunch, which was a beautiful spot, sparse and dry apart from the shimmering water. Our cook group put out a selection of bread, meat, cheese and veg, and then we were on our way again.

In the evening we camped on a hill surrounded by mud volcanoes and began to prepare the evening meal to the bubbling eruptions and the sound of mud trickling out. Dinner was a success as we peeled and soated potatoes with sausages and tomatoes. Gradually the sun went down, leaving a gorgeous red glow over the mountains and a sky full of stars. The gurgling sound of the mud erruptions was a little disturbing for sleeping to, so I put in my earplugs and slept deeply until the morning. I awoke to the hurried clanging of boxes being put back into the truck, as rain clouds had formed and we needed to leave before we would be stuck. Where we were camping is very dry and it rarely rains but we couldn't take the chance.

The drive back was an interesting one, as the drivers tried retracing the sandy track we had taken previously, but somehow we were on a different path which led us around a maze of never ending gas pipes and a railway line. Eventually we found civilisation and a smooth road, which took us towards Baku. We stopped off at a display of Petroglyphs on the way, with ancient carvings of bulls, hunters and primitive boats.