Mud Volcanoes, Azerbaijan

The journey to the boarder was fairly uneventful, as an official came onto our truck to gather passports, reading our names and staring intently at us. Eventually they were returned to us and two hours after arriving on the Georgian side, we set off into Azerbaijan. The air was noticeably drier, the sun hotter and the fields golden with corn. At least I know that the bread will be plentiful.

Our accommodation for the night was at the grand Caravanserai, a gorgeous inn, famous for providing food and a bed for passing traders, with a large wooden door and a beautiful domed ceiling. There was a courtyard in the center with plants and seating, providing a peaceful retreat.

The journey the next day was long and consisted of driving through hours of nothingness with the occasional rocky sand dune. We stopped by an inland lake for lunch, which was a beautiful spot, sparse and dry apart from the shimmering water. Our cook group put out a selection of bread, meat, cheese and veg, and then we were on our way again.

In the evening we camped on a hill surrounded by mud volcanoes and began to prepare the evening meal to the bubbling eruptions and the sound of mud trickling out. Dinner was a success as we peeled and soated potatoes with sausages and tomatoes. Gradually the sun went down, leaving a gorgeous red glow over the mountains and a sky full of stars. The gurgling sound of the mud erruptions was a little disturbing for sleeping to, so I put in my earplugs and slept deeply until the morning. I awoke to the hurried clanging of boxes being put back into the truck, as rain clouds had formed and we needed to leave before we would be stuck. Where we were camping is very dry and it rarely rains but we couldn't take the chance.

The drive back was an interesting one, as the drivers tried retracing the sandy track we had taken previously, but somehow we were on a different path which led us around a maze of never ending gas pipes and a railway line. Eventually we found civilisation and a smooth road, which took us towards Baku. We stopped off at a display of Petroglyphs on the way, with ancient carvings of bulls, hunters and primitive boats.

Telavi, Georgia

Today I left the luxury of my hotel room for the truck and we made our way towards Telavi, stopping at the newly renovated tourist town of Signagi along the way. The town felt very out of place, with its picture perfect facades and decorative window boxes, after all the delapidated buildings of nearby Tbilisi. There were police on every corner, maintaining the sense of peace, as hordes of Georgian tourists flocked to the newly created Pleasantville, to pose against the sparkling fountain and take a yellow tourist bus out to the boundary walls.

A huge amount of money had been spent on turning this town into an attraction, so much so, that it felt like a themed city, sterile and false, with a hint of something sinister, underneath the artificially created surface. The surrounding landscape was idyllic and resembled images of Tuscany, with terracotta roofs and green rolling hills. I sat on the fountain steps and ate my lunch, when even a cheerful dog sat beside me, well mannered and tail wagging as I tore off some scraps of bread.

Later in the afternoon we arrived at our homestay, a large family house with huge rooms and a balcony, overlooking a garden with herbs and fruit trees. We went fr a walk to the nearest town, while our host prepared a delicious meal for us, with a meaty soup, various dishes of vegetables and peppers stuffed with meat and rice. I also had a small dish of sliced mushrooms mixed with herbs. The soft drinks, however, were quite disgusting, artificial and fizzy, barely resembling the flavour that they were supposed to be. Much local wine was consumed by the others as a string of toasts were made. Part of the way through the evening the power cut off and we were in darkness. Our hosts brought out candles and we continued to eat.

The next day we said goodbye to our hosts and drove to a monestry in use by a group of nuns. Photography was not allowed and we were given long skirts to wear, on top of trousers. The main building was oppressive, with faded frescos, dimly lit by candle light and guarded by stern faced nuns. The next stop was a wine tasting experience, which a few of us decided to skip. The rest of the group came back quite merry and continued to drink throughout the day. They also filled a jerry can for the journey through the Stans, with cheap Georgian wine.

We sat up camp by the end of the afternoon in a clearing, surrounded by wooded hills and a lake. A local farmer hearded his sheep around the campsite and out towards distant pastures and a few of us gathered wood for the fire. Meat was cooked over an impromptu barbecue of hot wood with jacket potato and vegetables. It tasted divine.

Shortly after going to bed I became aware of drunken singing growing louder as a group of locals wandered around our campsite, probably curious as to who we were and wanting someone to drink with. After a while of us laying silently in our tents, they moved on and all that could be heard was the trickle of the stream.

Tbilisi, Georgia

Tbilisi is a fusion of Western high street stores and Soviet style grocery shops, with a small selection of meats, veg and an assortment of plastic goods. The main high street has a very modern feel, with imposing architecture and interesting churches, but as soon as I stray from the main area, the side streets display a vision of chaotic wiring and crumbling facades. Many of these buildings are still habited but they look more like a scene from a shanty town, than modern Tbilisi. There is another part of town near the river, with pavement cafes and bars, providing a great atmosphere and somewhere relaxed to eat in the evenings.



The food in Tbilisi is wonderful. There is a lot of choice and salads are served to a Western standard. On the first night, I ate at a pavement cafe and ordered a potato with veg salad and a dish of chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce, accompanied by green tarragon flavoured lemonade. The waitresses here are very friendly and service has so far been with a smile. A mix of rock and pop songs are played in the background and groups of friends chat and laugh over a selection of European cuisine.

Yesterday we had a walking tour, through botanical gardens and church grounds on a hillside, which gave great views of the city. We stopped at a restaurant for lunch and continued to the modern town, passing grand Parliment buildings and an ornate theatre. Our young guide was in her final year at University and coincidently is the daughter of the family whose guesthouse that we stayed at in Mestia. This really does feel a very small country.



By mid afternoon it had started to rain and by the evening it was torrential, so I took the metro to the new town, which was clean, efficient and in cryllic. I commited the ultimate traveller sin and ate at McDonalds. I think that the last time I did this was in Prague, many years ago. Again, it was raining a lot and I hoped it wouldn't be as bad as the chain at home. So I ordered my hamburger meal and took advantage of the free wifi. The city looked really beautiful at night so I took a few photos. I took the metro back to hotel GTM and got quite soaked on the quick walk back. This morning I bought an umbrella, although today is has been hot and sunny. We have another two days in Georgia, including a night camping and a home stay.

Mestia, Georgia

The musical sound of bells can be heard, as a cow emerges from a cluster of pine trees. We trek for a few hours, through woods and large rocky landscapes, precariously negotiating my way across a stoney valley.

Both sides are forested and infront stands a glacier, dwarfed by a peak of ice. On the other side of the glacier is Russia. I pause for a while and eat my supply of cake, biscuits and turkish delight, standing in a mix of snow and grit. I try to shelter by a large rock as some of the group trek right up to the glacier. The weather begins to turn, so we head back.



We have been staying in the rural town of Mestia, after a long drive from Batumi, into the mountains.



We arrived late after a slow journey, not helped by a spring breaking on the truck. Tired and admitting defeat, we checked into a guesthouse, where within half an hour, our host had prepared a meal for us, consisting of soups, potato salad, a homemade pizza, yogurt and an incredibley sweet walnut cake. Much wine was consumed by the others and it was a fairly joyous night. In the morning we were treated to a hearty breakfast of potatoes, egg and barely wheat, at the Nino and Eka Japaridze guesthouse, before our trek into the Caucasus mountains.



By the time we arrived back in town, the leaders had nearly finished working on the truck and we had gathered quite a crowd. I sat on the park railings with some of the local kids, as cows strolled past and even a pot bellied pig. There is something quite liberating about staying in a community where animals wander freely and people toot their horns and wave, when we are camping. The people in Georgia are so friendly.



With the truck fixed, we drove a short distance out of town, to a grassy field and pitched our tents. I heard the distant sound of buzzing which was rapidly getting louder. Some of the guys were sitting around the camp fire, blissfully unaware and after a brief moment of panic, we jumped into the back of the truck, as a swarm of either wasps or bees flew by. After returning to the field, we soon had company in the form of a drooling dog, who kept his distance while staring intently at the food being prepared. A group of children also appeared, who lit their own camp fire and proceeded to jump over it. As night fell, the children left but we were surrounded by dogs and cows. I fell asleep quickly and all to soon it was morning and time to pack our tents and drive back to Kutasi, which we had stopped at a few days earlier.

Batumi, Georgia

We made it into Georgia, after a lengthy police stop and much waiting for the truck to get through the border crossing. We have stopped in the town of Batumi, an interesting town with a port and many individual stalls. The people have a very different face shape to Turkey and so far have been lovely.

I took a few photos in one of the side streets of various merchants, including one of myself and a flower seller. For lunch we found a pavement cafe where I ordered grey mullet fish and bread. Many of the items on the menu were unavailable, but the meal was delicious and our hosts were appreciative of our custom. It's been a relaxing day, with a stroll along the sea front and various wandering through streets. There is noticeably more povety here, with many people begging and even a baby left on the street, to attract money. However, Georgia looks like a fascinating country, which I shall see more of soon. Tomorrow we leave Batumi for our homestay.

Cappadocia to Trabzon

Last night we arrived in Trabzon after a grueling journey through endless mountain passes and twisty roads. What was expected to be a four hour journey turned into a ten hour expedition, through mountain passes of 3200m, in the mist, clouds, and hill sides covered in pine trees. There was even snow and a flock of very woolly rams.

The landscape changed dramatically from the dusty rock scape of Cappadocia. We passed through lush green plains, next to poppy fields and inland lakes until we reached alpine scenery. I took many photos along the journey as the mountain roads provided breath taking views. Unfortunately I felt very dizzy, but thankfully I survived with the help of several motion sickness tablets. Eight hours of those roads was exhausting and I was very glad to arrive, even if Trabzon is possibly the ugliest town that I have ever seen! The weather here is pretty similar to at home. It's cold and grey, with stormy looking clouds. Not quite the Turkish seaside resort that I was expecting. However, I went to see an old church this morning with some of the group and then wandered around the town. There were streets of brightly coloured clothes shops and market stalls with fabric and fresh fish. I tried to buy a silk head scarf but I couldn't find a colour scheme that suited me. Most of them tended to use floral prints in bright colour and I decided that the choice of head scalf represented the wearers personality. There are times when blending in is really useful, but when I walk around on my own I don't seem to have many problems since many of the local girls have curly brown hair and western style clothes.

Despite there being not a lot here for tourists to see, it's an interesting place with lovely fresh bread and great fish restaurants. I enjoyed walking through the narrow streets, which showed a very honest representation of the way of life here, in industrial Turkey.

This afternoon we took a trip out of town to the Sumela Monastery which is built into a cliff face, hidden in the forested Karadaglar mountains. It was incredibley atmospheric, covered in mist, with a vertical rock face that continued as far as the eye could see. Inside the monastery were religious frescos that covered the entire surface area. Although the visibility was pretty bad, and we weren't able to see the building from the valley, it was still an interesting trip.

Cappadocia, Turkey

Today a few of us went for a wander from the campsite to the town of Gerome, passing several rock formations along the way. I tried to take a fairly slow walk in the hot sun as apparently today the temperature reached the mid thirties. I think that I am beginning to get used to it, as I'm feeling a lot better.




The people on the tour are all really nice and its been fun just chatting and trekking. For lunch we stopped off at a restaurant and I had lamb kabab and rice which was nice. My idea for being vegetarian really doesn't work out here, as I feel so much better for eating meat.



Tomorrow we are leaving and heading to the North East of Turkey. We have our first bush camp in the evening and then we arrive in Trabzon the following day.

Istanbul to Cappadocia

After a slight mix up with the group meeting point, we were directed to a different hostel, where I met the rest of my travel companions. There are nine of us in total plus two drivers. This provided much relief as the group combines a range of ages, a fairly balanced male/female mix and so far, the people seem pretty nice. The group leaders seemed like great guys too. For the rest of the day we went off to explore Istanbul and I found myself mostly ignoring various forms of hastle from Turkish men as I walked to the Blue Mosque. Although this part of town had some great architecture, it felt quite sleazy as it had many obvious tourist shops and cafes. I preferred the area around Taksim Square and its happening main street.




The following morning we left our hostel at six am and took a tram to the edge of the city. From there we met the truck for the first time and the drivers negotiated grid locked roads as we made our way towards central Turkey. They drove for thirteen hours, with frequentent breaks at service stations along the way.

After a few hours the countryside changed into a landscape of rolling hills with scattered villages and uniform housing blocks, to dry, arid mountains. I managed to sleep for quite a lot of the journey due to such an early start as well as the continual rocking of the vehicle. We watched the sunset against the mountains and a few hours later we turned up at a campsite. We were given a quick demonstration in putting up tents and fed a meaty pizza. I found this disgusting as it had been ordered for our arrival, by which point it was warm, greasy with a scattering of minced meat and possibly some vegetables. I tried to satisfy the rest of my hunger with a packet of crisps.



The night was cold. Very cold. It felt like I woke up every hour and put on another layer of clothing until three am, when I decided there was still enough of the night left that I couldn't stay as I was until morning. By this point I was in the sleeping bag wearing a full set of clothes with thermals, a fleece and a coat with a hood. I began to wonder whether I had the sleeping bag inside out, and had to get out into the cold tent, turn it the other way and in desperation I grabbed all the clothes that I had with me, to stuff into the sleeping bag around me. All our tents were so close together I was slightly concerned about waking the others, since every movement sounded so loud, but I became too cold to think about that. I awoke to hot morning sunlight and realised that I was sleeping next a mesh layer without a cover. In the morning I was set up with a different tent which I shall try tonight.

Today we went on a tour of the Cappadocia region and encountered great rock structures, referred to as fairy chimmney, where people use to live until the ninteen fifties. We went inside one of the buildings but I found it far too claustrophopic, with narrow tunnels and low ceilings in the darkness. The rest of the group explored the underground city, where people use to live, their existance completely undetected by those above. The group were told to leave their backpacks behind to ensure that they could fit through some vary small spaces. After seeing the photos from the rest of the group, I think that I made the right decision in staying above ground.



On the way back, we stopped off in a large town and I bought duvet to put over the top of my sleeping bag and a towel, since I think my travel towel is back in England, in a different backpack. I am hoping that with a warmer tent, being fully prepared with thermal clothing and a duvet to cover the sleeping bag, I should be able to feel warm.

I feel that I am starting to get to know the group a bit more tonight and we had our first evening dinner at the camp which was a fun experience.

Istanbul, Turkey

I've arrived in sunny Istanbul. I'm staying at a hostel near Tasksim square in the modern part of the city. The streets here are bustling with people and everything is very colourful, from the shop fronts, to the clothes that people are wearing. It definately has that feel of Europe meets Asia, with a very happening yet chilled atmosphere.



So far Istanbul seems like an interesting city, which I shall see a totally different side to tomorrow, when I go to the old part of town to meet up with the Dragoman group and start the tour. There's a small supermarket next to the hostel so I'm going to head back and relax. So far so good...

Pirita Beach, Tallinn, Estonia

Another part of Tallinn that I wanted to visit was the Pirita beach and the old Olympic village. We took a bus out to the east of Tallinn, where we wandered through a beautiful pine forest, before emerging onto an empty beach. In the distance stood a desolute looking, white soviet building, which formed part of the 1980 Olympic village. The whole area was incredibly quiet and peaceful.



There are many cycling and walking trails nearby, so we followed a path through woodland for a few miles. We were considering walking to the TV Tower, but it is a long walk from the main road (many miles), so we turned back and returned to Tallinn.

I wanted to see some of the new town, so we wandered through the modern city, with it's glass fronted department stores and high rise buildings. It felt like consumerism is really alive here. I missed the character of the old town and felt glad that we weren't staying here, as it would give such a different impression of Tallinn. Visually, it was an interesting place to be, with old soviet buildings in between ultra modern department stores.



In the morning, a medieval fair was being set up in the main square, and upon our return it was in full swing with stalls selling bags of spiced nuts and interesting crafts, such as pointy felt hats and traditional clothes. We found out that at the weekend, there would be many more stalls all over Tallinn, as part of a Medieval Festival and we had just caught the edge of it.



We had been admiring the menu of the Olde Hansa all week and decided that since it was our last night in Tallinn, we should go. So in the evening we headed to the old town hall, with its atmospheric lanterns at the entrance. It was a grand affair and we were greeted by the lady of the house wearing traditional costume, who led us into a magnificent banquetting hall with flickering candles and string musicians. The food was wonderful, with an incredible selection of hearty feasts from the middle ages, from wild bore to quail eggs and everything in between. The evening contained many surprises, including jesters and viking ships covered in sparklers. We both enjoyed our meals. I chose a meat dish accompanied with berries and a 'bean bag'. The waitors played the perfect hosts, as everything arrived with compliments and best wishes from the chef. The atmosphere was great too, with large parties of diners celebrating, it was easy to have a good time.